BATTAMBANG
Prasat Banan (ប្រាសាទបាណន់): Visiting Battambang’s Hilltop Temple
You might be templed out if coming from Siem Reap, but Battambang actually has a few temples that might also be of interest. Banan, Ek Phnom, Sneung and Baset are all easily accessible from Battambang. And although not as grand as what you see in Siem Reap, we think they are well worth the visit, especially as you may be the only people there.
Banan is about 25 km from Battambang and easily accessed by tuk tuk or motorbike. We love Banan for the large staircase leading to the top of the hill and the wonderful views across the Battambang lowlands.
As you arrive at Banan, the first thing you will notice is the 358 steps to the top. The staircase itself is beautiful, flanked by long nagas on either side and shaded by the tall trees that line the way.
It costs $2 to enter the complex, paid at the ticket booth at the base of the stairs. There is also ample parking here and many stalls selling snacks and drinks so you can reward yourself with a fresh coconut when you come down.
Banan was originally a Hindu temple, built during the reign of King Udayadityavarman II in the 11th century. Then during King Jayavarman VII’s reign it was renovated and became a Buddhist site.
At the top there are five towers, similar to Angkor Wat. Banan actually predates Angkor Wat, so some believe that it may have been a prototype for its structure.
Although the towers look like they could fall down at any minute, Banan is actually one of the area’s best-preserved temples. Some of the lintels are still in place above the doorways and look for the bas-reliefs on the upper sections of the central tower. And the missing lintels, they can be see at the Battambang Museum where they are now preserved.
The prasat has seen plenty of looting over the years, with statues and carvings damaged or stolen and you can still see some of the headless female figures carved into the temple walls. Look for them on the doorways.
One of the highlights of reaching the top is the sweeping views across the countryside. As there are few hills in this area, you can see quite a distance across the rice fields, although you do need to peek through the trees.
There are also some beautiful wildflowers at the top, which make the photos even more beautiful. It’s an easy place to spend an hour, and although the stairs are a big part of the trip, wandering around the flowers looking at the old temple is pretty special too.
Things to Know Before Visiting Banan
If you are coming to Banan, don’t forget water, sunscreen and a hat. It’s best to wear good walking shoes as the stairs are quite uneven. Even at the top, the ground is rocky in places, with some low sections and timber frames supporting parts of the temple.
If travelling to Banan in April or May, look for the flame trees that line the road. Called peacock trees in Cambodia, their orange flowers are quite spectacular. We enjoy cycling to Banan at this time of the year, just because of the trees.
Other Things to See Around Banan
At the base of the mountain is the Banan Bamboo Train if you want to take an adventure ride while you are there.
If you are going to Banan, you can also add in a stop at the Bahá’í Temple or Wat Bay Damram, where hundreds of fruit bats roost in the trees. And you can easily visit Banan before heading to Phnom Sampov to see the bats flying out of the caves at sunset.
Banan is a lovely trip from Battambang on it’s own. And the drive out there through the local villages is really nice. And even if you’ve already seen plenty of temples in Siem Reap, we think Banan is worth the climb.
We visit Banan temple and area regularly, at least a few times a year.
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