KOH KONG

Staying at Cardamom Tented Camp: Hiking, Kayaking and Conservation

Cardamom Tented Camp sits inside Botum Sakor National Park in Koh Kong Province, surrounded by rainforest and overlooking the Prek Tachan River. I spent three days here with friends, kayaking, hiking through the forest and enjoying a rare few days with almost no phone reception. Profits from the camp also help fund forest rangers protecting the surrounding forest.

First impressions

There are no roads into the camp. You either arrive by boat, hike through the forest or, if your budget allows, come by helicopter. (Nehru has actually flown in once with a client, but the included boat ride was much more in my price range.) The boat ride takes about 30 minutes and winds along the Prek Tachan River before the camp appears amongst the trees.

Crystal clear river on the way to the Cardamom Tented Camp with the wake from the boat in the foreground. — The boat ride to the Cardamom Tented Camp

When we arrived, everyone gathered in the main reception and restaurant area while rooms were allocated and keys handed out. We’d originally booked for two people, but another friend decided to join us at the last minute. Even though the camp was full they managed to squeeze another bed into our tent without it feeling cramped.

Gibbons in the morning, geckos at night

We stayed in the Sun Bear tent, which was comfortable without losing the feeling of camping. A nice balance between enjoying nature and sleeping on crisp sheets. There are several safari-style tents and each of them sits on an elevated wooden platform connected to the rest of the camp by boardwalks.

Inside, there was a comfortable bed with quality linen, plenty of airflow through the screened openings and standing fans to keep things cool. We travelled in November and at times there was fog across the campsite and by evening I was reaching for a light jumper so I’d recommend packing an extra layer.

Glamping tent with a bamboo balcony and a white canvas top at Cardamom Tented Camp

Three single beds with white sheets lined up again a large square tent wall. Behind them are tent windows with mosquito screens.

A wooden bathroom vanity is on the left with a white square basin. On the right is an open shower with one side glass screen. The walls are made from bamboo and you can see the trees outside the top of the wall.

A wooden boardwalk sweeps to the left over grassland. Along the boardwalk are two safari-style tents.

At the back of the tent was an enclosed bathroom complete with hot water, flushing toilet and locally sourced toiletries. There were gaps between the shower walls and the roof, which was great for looking out into the jungle while showering. There were plenty of mosquitoes around, so make sure you pack some DEET.

At the front of the tent, a spacious balcony with chairs provided the perfect place to sit and watch the forest or the sunset.

Every morning we woke to the calls of gibbons echoing through the trees. At night, the soundtrack changed to frogs, insects and geckos. One evening we had a large tokay gecko position itself outside our tent, providing us with its silhouette on the canvas ceiling for hours.

Meals Overlooking the Prek Tachan River

The main restaurant and communal area sits overlooking the Prek Tachan River, with hammocks and seating areas for relaxing at any time of the day.

We were served set menus throughout our stay, which makes sense given how remote the camp is. Meals included Khmer favourites like amok and lok lak and dinner came with a dessert (the chocolate fondant cake was particularly memorable). The meals were generous and we certainly didn’t go hungry, although we were glad we’d brought a few snacks with us. There was also a small bar where both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks could be purchased.

Kayaking Through the Forest

They have some equipment available at the camp for you to use. We made the most of the kayaks, taking them out twice during our stay. Our first trip took us through the quiet waterways surrounding the camp and down some smaller streams.

They offered to pick us up by boat if we felt tired and we took them up on the offer, enjoying a rest as the boat pulled us back in our kayaks.

Before leaving on our final morning, we squeezed in one last paddle while the river was still wrapped in fog trying to see if we could get a glimpse of the gibbons nearby. We never did find the gibbons, but the misty river more than made up for it.

A red kayak sits in the water of a small stream with green overhanging branches.

Hiking Through Botum Sakor National Park

The guided forest hike was included in our stay. We hopped on a boat to head out to the Prek Tachan Ranger Station, where our guides explained some of the conservation work taking place in the area. You could see the piles of confiscated fishing nets and equipment that had been removed from the protected area.

From there we headed into the forest, walking through open grasslands, dense rainforest with vines hanging overhead and even across a stream.

Orange and brown fungi are attached to a log in the forest floor.

Orange and brown fungi is attached to an upright tree.

Close up of a single orange fungi half in shade half in the sun.

And then there were the leeches. Despite long pants, socks and plenty of DEET, I still ended up with a couple attached to me by the end of the walk. They were only tiny, but it’s worth checking yourself over once you’re back at camp to make sure you haven’t brought any unwanted guests with you.

After the hike, we cooled off in the river, and yes it was pretty crisp. The camp has a small jetty perfect for swimming off with life jackets and tyre tubes. There is also a flying fox across the river for those who want a bit of extra adventure.

A foggy calm river with large trees on each side and two long wooden boats moored on a jetty. — The fog over the river in the morning

We really enjoyed our stay at Cardamom Tented Camp. Between the kayaking, forest walk, evenings listening to the wildlife and comfortable tents, we thought it was a great way to spend a few days in Botum Sakor National Park. If you’re looking for a couple of days away from the cities, it’s well worth considering.

Mel visited Cardamom Tented camp in November 2021 and Nehru in May 2023