RATANAKIRI
Banlung Waterfalls: Visiting Katieng, Kachanh & Cha Ong
Banlung sits in a wide valley surrounded by low hills in Cambodia’s Ratanakiri Province. Several waterfalls lie within a short drive of town, making it an easy place to spend an afternoon exploring.
We visited three of the main waterfalls on a day trip organised by our host at Tribal Village Homestay, where Smey arranged a tuk tuk and mapped out the route. It’s straightforward to do the same trip independently by motorbike or car, and you could also cycle to the waterfalls during the dry season.
Even in the dry season, when we were there, the waterfalls were still flowing well enough to be impressive, and access was simple. Swimming was possible, though the water was quite cold and although we didn’t swim, there were plenty of people enjoying the water at Kachanh Waterfall.
Katieng Waterfall
Katieng Waterfall is about 10 km southeast of Banlung and is one of the most accessible stops and it’s an easy walk down a short set of stairs to the river. There are viewing platforms along the stairs, including a heart-shaped platform clearly designed for Instagram photos.
The waterfall isn’t especially tall, but it forms a curtain of water over the rockface and it’s possible to walk behind it.
Below the falls are rocks and shallow sections of river where you can explore or simply sit close to the water. Although nobody was swimming when we visited, it would be an easy place to cool off.
Kachanh Waterfall
Kachanh Waterfall (also spelled Kachang or Ka Chanh) is located about 7–8 km from Banlung and is the most developed of the three waterfalls we visited.
Near the parking area there are a number of picnic huts and sellers on both sides of the river. When we arrived, local families were making the most of the shallow pools among the rocks, swimming and relaxing.
We stopped first at the display of huts known as girls’ houses. Traditionally these were built for daughters when they reached puberty, giving them a private place to meet potential partners before choosing who they wished to marry. Today the custom is gradually disappearing, with many families simply building an extra room onto the main house instead.
A path leading to stairs on the left of the huts takes you to the waterfall. A suspension bridge crosses in front of the falls, giving the best views of both the waterfall and the surrounding forest. It can sway quite a bit, especially when several people are crossing or someone is deliberately swinging it, so cross with a little care.
Cha Ong Waterfall
Cha Ong is the tallest of the three, dropping around 20 metres into a rocky pool below. The setting here feels more lush and green, with dense greenery around the falls. From the viewing area you can look down into the valley below, which gives a lovely view of the surrounding forest.
This felt like the least developed of the three waterfalls, although that could quickly change. It was also the quietest of the waterfalls we visited and we had the place to ourselves.
All three waterfalls charge a small entrance fee, so it’s worth carrying some cash with you.
The Drive Between the Waterfalls
The drives between sites pass through the hills and there are many opportunities for photos across the valleys. There are also plenty of rubber plantations and cashew farms, which are common in this part of Ratanakiri.
We stopped at some of the rubber plantations to look more closely at the rubber tree tapping, which I’d never seen close up before. They make small cuts in the wood and attach a cup to collect the sap. I love looking at their uniformity and rows of trees each marked with the same diagonal cut, spiralling down the trunks. There are also plenty of cashew farms if you’re curious to see how cashews grow.
Visiting the waterfalls made for an easy afternoon from Banlung and each one felt a little different. Whether you want to walk behind the curtain of water at Katieng, cross the suspension bridge at Kachanh or enjoy the quieter setting at Cha Ong, they’re all close enough to visit in a single trip. If you’re spending a couple of days in Banlung, they combine well with Yeak Laom Lake, the nearby Indigenous communities and the surrounding countryside, making it easy to fill two or three days without travelling too far.
Mel visited Ratanakiri in January 2021
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