KRACHEH
Phnom Sambok: Climbing Kracheh’s Hilltop Pagoda
Phnom Sambok (ភ្នំសំបុក) is a Buddhist monastery and temple complex about 10 km north of Kracheh (Kraite), sitting on what is effectively the only real hill in the district. We spent a lovely afternoon climbing the stairs, wandering through the forest and watching monastery life, and were surprised by just how much there was to see. There are also some good views across the Mekong plains as you make your way up.
We’d hired a motorbike for our trip around Kracheh, but you could also get here by tuk tuk or cycle from town. Just make sure Phnom Sambok is the destination you’re heading for and you’re not confused with Sambok Pagoda, which is another pagoda nearby.
At the base, take the road on the right next to the two elephants with the Dharma wheel to reach the parking area at the bottom of the steps. There is also a road on the left that winds up the hill. After a busy day walking, we decided to take the left and drive up to the top, but our little hired motorbike didn’t have the strength to climb the steep sections and I had to get off and walk part of the way anyway. You also miss a whole section of monks lining the steps if you drive up.
Climbing Phnom Sambok
Phnom Sambok is spread across a few levels of the hill, connected by long runs of concrete steps. At the bottom are a few statues and guardians, but they don’t hold off the monkeys that appear as soon as you take the steps. They didn’t come too close and left as soon as they realised I had no food, but it’s good to be aware of them.
The best part of the walk up the steps is what seems like hundreds of life-sized monk statues lining the stairway. Evenly spaced and carrying alms bowls, they lead you as they circle around towards the top of the hill.
On the first landing, there is a small complex with pathways, sculptures and a cluster of monastery buildings. Take a right here to continue following the monks up to the next level.
Exploring the Different Levels
On this next level you will be greeted by a teaching Buddha standing in front of a flagpole and a lovely mid-century modern-style building. There are some seating areas to rest here, inspirational signs pinned to poles and a bomb casing hanging from a tree that the monks ring to gather everyone.
We followed the path around the hill, passing more sculptures of teaching Buddhas, stupas and scenes from Buddhist stories, including my favourite, where the naga Mucalinda shelters the Buddha from the rain.
Walking around there were a few monks studying and I also found notebooks and a random handful of highlighters left on one of the sculptures, which made the teacher in me smile. There are also a couple of lovely older buildings here and then a row of meditating Buddhas leads you back to where you started.
We climbed the next set of stairs, which had monks carrying umbrellas to lead us up. At the top is a small shrine, a large pole with nagas wrapped around it and several other sculptures. At this level you can get some lovely views across the river and plains, although you do have to peer through the trees to see them.
Inside is an altar with a Buddha statue and murals depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life. You’ll need to take your shoes off before going inside. We were there just as the sun was setting and they were ready to close up the shrine, so arrive a little earlier than we did if you want to see inside.
Making our way back down, Nehru stopped to chat to a few of the monks and ask them about the history behind some of the signs he had seen. I admired the garden area. We then took a walk around the monastery area where people were starting to congregate for the evening. A group of women staying in the meditation huts were sitting out on their verandahs chatting. They were here for a few weeks practising meditation.
Is Phnom Sambok Worth Visiting?
Phnom Sambok has gone down as one of our favourite pagodas to visit. We like how it sits on different levels, and the lines of monks leading you up each level is beautiful. It was a really nice place to spend a couple of hours. It’s also on the way to Kampi, so it can easily be paired with a trip to see the dolphins, Kampi Rapids or the 100 Column Pagoda.
We visited Kracheh in May 2026
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