PHNOM PENH
Phnom Penh Sunset Cruise: What You Can See Along the Mekong
One of our favourite things to do in Phnom Penh is a sunset cruise along the Mekong. It gives you a break from the busy riverside streets and offers some of the best views of the city from the water. This is something we do regularly because it’s such an easy and enjoyable evening out, whether it’s just the two of us looking for something to do or when we have friends in town.
The boats leave from the riverside and travel along the Tonlé Sap, past the ferry crossing, before heading out onto the Mekong River and returning. They usually do a few loops of this same area, so if you go during sunset you can usually see the same places in daylight and in the night time.
Along the way you’ll see fantastic views of Phnom Penh’s skyline and some everyday life on the water. We enjoy watching the fishing villages along the banks and the busy ferries carrying commuters home at the end of the day.
There are plenty of options for boat cruises along the riverside, and you’ll probably be approached by several operators offering cruises as you walk along. We like to use Crocodile Cruises, mainly because they are organised and professional, making it all stress-free.
Tickets cost 20,000៛ ($5) for foreign visitors and 5,000៛ ($1.25) for Cambodian tourists. And as a bonus, each ticket includes a complimentary beer or bottled water. Just hand your ticket to the bar staff to claim your drink. There is a bar selling beer, wine and soft drinks, and they also sell hot snacks like spring rolls and beef skewers, which they cook on board. You can also take your own drinks and food with you, which is what we like to do. We usually grab a couple of extra beers to enjoy while we are there.
Most of the boat operators offer a similar experience, so if you find yourself further along the riverside there’s no real need to walk all the way back to Crocodile Cruises.
At Crocodile Cruises, you buy a ticket, head down the ramp and staff will point you towards the next boat leaving. The first one leaves at about 5pm and they usually leave every hour after that, more if it is busy. We always try to arrive a little early so we can find a good seat on top of the boat and enjoy the river while we wait for it to leave.
Parking is available at the Crocodile Cruises jetty, and there’s a waiting area nearby where it’s easy to catch a tuk tuk afterwards. Alternatively, you can head across the road to the Night Market, wander along the riverside promenade or, on Saturday and Sunday evenings, head to Walking Street.
The trip lasts about an hour and the boats generally make a few loops around the Chaktomuk area and Chroy Changvar peninsula. The boats generally continue operating during light rain. However, if a thunderstorm develops with lightning and strong winds, they’ll return early for safety.
What can you see on a Phnom Penh sunset cruise?
There’s lots to look out for along the trip, including the Royal Palace where you can see the Moonlight Pavilion lit up. In front of that, on the riverbank, is Ponlea Chey Pavilion, where the King watches the boat races during the annual Water Festival.
You can also catch a glimpse of the fan-shaped Chaktomuk Conference Hall beside the Royal Palace. Designed by Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, it’s a wonderful example of New Khmer Architecture.
A new addition to the Phnom Penh skyline is the National Bank of Cambodia, which is designed to follow the lines of a mountain temple, such as Bakong or Koh Ker. It’s a rather striking building, particularly from the river. (You also get a great view from Juniper Gin bar if you are interested). Behind it is the huge General Department of Customs and Excise of Cambodia building, which is usually lit up.
Looking south from the Royal Palace, you might see the very large Ministry of Interior building. It has a distinctive Khmer-inspired design, with its tiered roofline said to represent the five towers of Angkor Wat.
Further south, look out for the Koh Pich–Koh Norea Bridge, easily recognised by its large triangular pylons and cables. On some evenings, Cambodian flags are lit up along the bridge.
Looking east across the Mekong, you can see Arey Ksat and the ferries crossing back and forth from Phnom Penh. It’s the same direction we head when travelling out towards Silk Island.
Where the Rivers Meet at Chaktomuk
The cruise also passes through Chaktomuk, meaning “Four Faces”, where four river branches meet: the upper and lower Mekong, the Tonlé Sap and the Tonlé Bassac. If there’s still enough daylight, you might be able to see a line in the water where the different colours of the Tonlé Sap and Mekong meet. The rivers carry different amounts and types of sediment, so the water doesn’t immediately appear to mix. You can also see it from the Mekong Lounge at the Shangri La hotel, which is one of our favourite places to see the water merge and enjoy their happy hour.
Another thing to check while you’re out on the water is which direction the Tonlé Sap is flowing. It is one of the very few rivers in the world that completely reverses direction every year. During the dry season it flows from Tonlé Sap Lake towards Phnom Penh and into the Mekong. As the Mekong rises during the wet season, the flow reverses, sending water back up the Tonlé Sap and into the lake.
We’ve done the boat cruise at many different times of the day, and often. It’s inexpensive, easy to organise and a great way to spend an hour away from the busy streets. Getting out onto the river also gives you a completely different view of Phnom Penh and its ever-changing skyline.
Related Posts
