BATTAMBANG

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Battambang Airport: Sunset Picnics on the Runway

Battambang Airport is one of those places we love to take friends and family visiting from overseas. It’s also one of our favourite things to do in Battambang. It kind of captures “real Cambodia” if there’s even such a thing.

Each evening, people head out to the old airport on the outskirts of Battambang to watch the sunset, exercise and spend time with family and friends.

The airport isn’t actually abandoned. It is still technically used by the military, although there are no longer any commercial flights. You will see the military hangars around the edges, but other than that it doesn’t really see much air traffic. Unless, of course, Angelina Jolie is in town (yes, that does happen occasionally as her NGO is based in Battambang).

At first it seems like a strange thing that an old airport would become a popular leisure space, but once you’re actually there, it makes sense. It’s not every day you get to picnic next to an airport runway.

Watching the sunset at Battambang Airport

When you first arrive, you will see cars and motorbikes lined up along the runway as people put down mats and share snacks while watching the sunset. Others come here for exercise, walking, running or cycling the length of the runway.

It’s really a place for all ages too. Young people meet up with their friends here, with groups of teenagers riding their motorbikes up and down the runway. Along the sides, young children ride their bikes and families walk their dogs.

Walking Nehru’s mum’s dog, Jojo, is one of the main reasons we visit. He sits in the sidecar for his trip to the airport and then loves walking the runway.

One of the things we love about it is you are still really close to town, but it is really open. And you can get some spectacular sunsets there, especially if there are a few storms around and the sky lights up pink and orange.

Our favourite way to enjoy it is to get some chicken wings or fried crickets, a couple of beers and put down the mat. Sometimes we take the speaker and listen to some music as we watch the sun go down.

Around the airport, tiny electric ice cream trucks covered in lights drive up and down the runway, alongside other mobile sellers with baby duck eggs, beef skewers and other snacks. Simply flag them down as they go past.

As it starts to get dark, people start to leave. You’ll know it’s time when you see families packing up their chairs and mats and piling onto the motorbike.

After the sun goes down, like everyone else you pack up and go home.

Visiting during the day

You can visit at any time of the day. Often in the morning people will use it as an exercise track, and farmers will bring their cows to graze on the grass around the edges.

During the day, the runway becomes a driving school and car testing area. Not in the formal sense, but you will run into people testing out a new car or someone learning to ride a motorbike. It is where I first learnt to ride a motorbike.

If you come before 4pm there is no fee and it is worth stopping by and looking at the abandoned buildings or taking photos on the runway. You can easily ask the tuk tuk to stop for a look, especially if you are as interested in abandoned airports as we seem to be.

The airport terminal buildings are all still there, and peeking inside you can still see rows of old airport waiting seats piled up and covered in dust. Outside next to the hangars is the old control tower. Other than a few buildings and hangars, it is really just a 1.6 km stretch of runway and the tarmac leading to the old terminal.

How to get there

The airport is about 3 km from the city centre and you can order a tuk tuk. If you organise one from your guesthouse or hotel, you can ask them to come back to pick you up when the sun sets.

We usually take the motorbike but PassApp and Grab will take you there too. When you are ready to head back, just order another one. Although you might want to walk to an actual point, like the terminal building or the front gate, to make it easier for them to find you.

We’ve also seen tourists walk out here. It’s only a few kilometres from town but you would be walking home along a busy road in the dark. People cycle too, just take care on the busy National Road 5 on the way back.

When to visit and what it costs

There is a small fee to enter the airport in the evenings. They usually start charging from about 4.30pm, and someone will be standing at the entrance. Simply hand them your 1,000៛ ($0.25) as you go past. We’ve not been in a car, so we are not sure if the fee is higher for cars. And if you’re walking, just ask how much. They may let you enter for free.

We like to arrive about 5pm just as most people are arriving to set up. That gives us enough time to enjoy the place. Sometimes, in the hotter months, it is better to wait until 5.30pm.

When you arrive, just find a place to set up. Whether it is close to the terminal building or right at the end of the runway, you can choose. We like to sit about halfway along, beside the runway, so we can see everything that is going on. Or you can choose to just walk the runway.

History of Battambang Airport

The airport opened in 1968 with a 1.6 km (1 mile) long runway and originally served domestic flights. After the creation of the Khmer Republic in 1970, it also became an important military base, with the Khmer Air Force moving its Air Academy and training squadron here. It was the country’s second-largest military airfield at the time.

The airport closed after the Khmer Rouge took control in 1975, and in 1993 it was used as a logistics base for the UNTAC peacekeeping mission. Australian and Malaysian personnel were based in Battambang, with six Australian Black Hawk helicopters also based at the airport during the elections.

Commercial flights later returned to Battambang, but by late 2003 the last regular services had stopped. With National Road 5 improving, travelling between Phnom Penh and Battambang by road had become much cheaper and easier.

We love to take friends and family here because it is such a Cambodian thing to do. Put down a mat, sit and relax, talk with family or friends and watch the world go by.

We visit the Battambang Airport every time we are in Battambang, usually once a month or so.

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