SIEM REAP


Kampong Kdei Bridge: Visiting Cambodia’s Ancient Spean Praptos

Kampong Kdei Bridge, officially known as Spean Praptos (ស្ពានព្រះទិស), is the ancient bridge between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, and is worth a stop if you are passing by. Only a few hundred metres from the main road, it is an easy detour and a good spot to take a break. I love a good bridge, so it was definitely on our itinerary when we did a lap around the Tonlé Sap on the motorbike.

An ancient stone bridge with a river running under it. In the foregrounds is a wooden boat and a tree.
Spean Praptos

This ancient stone bridge was built during the reign of Khmer King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th or early 13th century. It is one of the largest surviving bridges from the Khmer Empire and one of the longest corbelled stone bridges in Cambodia. You can also see it on the 5,000៛ note.

A large naga with many heads on the balustrade at Kampong Kdei Bridge

Walking Across Kampong Kdei Bridge

The bridge is open only to motorbike traffic nowadays, so if you are in a car they will probably drop you off and meet you on the other side. On the side closest to Siem Reap, there are toilets (500៛) and some information about the bridge. When we were there they were doing renovations, so we’re not sure if it will house more information in the future.

As you first walk across the bridge you will see the naga balustrades running along both sides. At each end, the balustrades finish in large multi-headed naga sculptures.

The 21 Corbelled Arches

But what is most beautiful about it is the arches. Unlike a curved arch, the stones are laid so each layer sticks out a little further than the one below until they eventually meet at the top. If you wander down the side of the bridge you can get a wonderful view of the 21 corbelled arches that span the bridge.

The ancient stone bridge is behind a man in a boat. He has is arms stretched out.
We asked him how wide the arch openings were. “Two metres”

We spent about 45 minutes here looking closely at everything. Admittedly, I am probably not the best person to judge how long you need at a bridge, and 45 minutes will be much too long for the average visitor, but it really does make for a great rest stop if you are travelling between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. There are a few places selling coconuts, drinks and snacks by the side of the bridge.

We visited in the dry season and the river was quite low, but in the wet season the water comes right up into the arches. We enjoyed being able to see the shape of the corbels, so we were pleased we were there in the dry season.

Ancient stone bridge with corbeled archways and a small river flowing through them.
21 Corbeled Arches

We often don’t think about the infrastructure built by the Khmer Empire, focusing instead on the temples. But it’s quite remarkable how many roads, bridges and rest houses they built, many of which you can still see today. Even along National Road 6, you can keep an eye out for a number of old stone bridges from your car or bus.

Is Kampong Kdei Bridge Worth Visiting?

Although we probably wouldn’t make a special trip from Siem Reap just to see it, unless you’re particularly interested in ancient bridges, we think it’s definitely worth stopping when you’re passing by. Generally drivers will happily stop here for a break, and why not do that next to an ancient bridge.

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