KOH KONG
Tatai (តាតៃ): River Lodge, Kayaking & Waterfall
Tatai sits on the banks of the Tatai River, one of the major rivers flowing from the Cardamom Mountains before reaching the coast near Koh Kong. The river is known for its rainforest scenery, wildlife, floating lodges and easy access to Tatai Waterfall.
We stopped at the community tourism office when we arrived, hoping to organise a boat trip to the waterfall. The price was 120,000៛ ($30) per boat, which felt quite expensive for just the two of us. In the end, we decided to visit the waterfall by motorbike on our way back instead. If you do choose to go by boat, there’s a tourism office under the bridge crossing the river.
Arriving in Tatai
We stayed at Tatai Star Light Lodge, a glamping place near the waterfall who were happy to let us camp for 20,000៛ ($5). The accommodation was a little worn down, probably just recovering since covid, but the owners were friendly and even set up a fire for us in the evening. There are a few more upmarket places in the area, including some riverside lodges, but one was closed for renovations and another did not allow camping.
Update August 2026: I’ve noticed online that the Star Light Lodge is not taking bookings so sadly they may have closed. Worth checking ahead if you can. Other options that are often recommended is Rainbow Lodge and the more upmarket Canvas Orchid.
Tatai is not really a nightlife destination. We headed into town for dinner but found only a couple of places serving meals, mostly hotpot-style. The area seems geared more towards day visitors than people staying overnight so check that your hotel has options.
Camping on the River
One of the advantages of camping is opening the tent to find the river right in front of us. The river comes to life early, with people in boats heading out to fish or going about their daily chores, birds skimming across the water looking for breakfast, and the occasional early tourist setting off. It is also the best time to be on the river. The water is crystal clear and the morning sun is still low enough that it’s not too hot.
We made the most of the free kayaks available at our accommodation and took them for a paddle. The river was incredibly peaceful, with farms lining the banks, birds moving through the trees, and the occasional boat passing by.
After a slow morning by the river and some noodles on the fire for breakfast, we headed towards the Tatai Waterfall on our way back to town. On the way we made a stop at what appeared to be an abandoned resort. It looked as though someone had started building a large tourism development before abandoning the project. It made for some interesting photos and a surreal stop along the way.
Tatai Waterfall
Tatai Waterfall is one of the area’s main attractions. During the wet season it stretches across a wide section of the river and can be particularly impressive after heavy rain. In the dry season, when we visited, it fills with locals on weekends and holidays enjoying the pools of water that are great for swimming.
On our return journey we stopped at the Win-Win Monument, a large memorial overlooking Koh Kong Province. It commemorates peace, national reconciliation, and the end of Cambodia’s civil war and is only the second Win-Win Monument in Cambodia, following the larger monument in Phnom Penh.
Even if history isn’t really your thing, the views make it worth a quick stop. From the monument we could look out across the forests, mangroves, coastline and ocean. The following day, while exploring the mangroves, we could still see the monument standing in the hills above.
Tatai is a quiet place to spend a night or two, especially if you enjoy getting out on the river. Between kayaking, the waterfall and a few interesting stops nearby, we found there was enough to fill a relaxed couple of days without feeling rushed.
We visited Tatai in December 2025
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